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The Submerged Temple: Saptakoteshwar
As I stepped off the ferry and onto the sun-kissed shores of Divar Island, I felt an anticipation of the unknown. Alongside my trusty sister, Geetha, and the effervescent, and young storyteller, Pritam from Make It Happen, I was ready to unravel the secrets of this quaint, eco-sensitive island.
Pritam’s infectious enthusiasm was palpable as he charmed us with stories of every structure we encountered. “Where are we going now?” I asked, my curiosity piqued by his sudden tight-lipped demenour.
“It’s a secret!” he replied, his eyes glinting with mischief. I exchanged a knowing glance with my sister, and we both shrugged.
Oh, I love unraveling secrets!
We soon entered a clearing, and what looked like a stepwell emerged, shrouded in an aura of mystery. The ruins of an ancient place, partially submerged, stood before us, whispering secrets to those who listened.
Pritam’s tales of the temple’s spectacular history only added to the allure.
He went on to say: “In 2021, the temple proved its resilience by weathering intense flooding, the lower two tiers were completely submerged, while the top has remained visible above the waterline,” he said. I was struck by the temple’s obscurity, despite its ancient origins.
We approached the steps, and a sense of calm stillness enveloped us. The air was heavy with untold stories, and I felt a need to uncover them. We walked in slow motion, lest we disturb the air or cause a ripple.
A stray dog joined us, and Pritam offered water, as if it were an old friend.
Geetha and I sat on the steps, and I saw Pritam recede into the background, sensing our need for silence. I was touched by his intuitive knowing of our unspoken need.
The space, too, seemed to understand our reverence, its ancient stones exuding a sense of peace and tranquility.
As we departed the area, the trees seemed to whisper secrets in the wind, leaving me with an inexplicable longing to know aspects of myself that still eluded me.
I told myself, “Take your time, let the stories unfold.”
The Saptakoteshwar temple may be partially submerged, yet it has left me eager to return and stay. Just a bit longer.
~
History
Site of the Temple of Saptakoteshwar – now a government-protected, archaeological monument – is in Piedade,
Divar Island, Goa
Saptakoteshwar Temple stands as one of the six most sacred sites of Lord Shiva in the Konkan region – a testament to the state’s opulent cultural heritage.
The temple was built by the Kadamba dynasty in the 12th century. The design, an amalgamation of styles, showcased the cultural exchange and influences of its time. The shallow Moghul dome, reminiscent of Islamic architecture, alongside a European-style assembly hall, and a towering lamp tower stretched towards the sky.
Demolished by the Portuguese in 1560, the temple’s sacred linga was repurposed as a humble well shaft. In 1668, the linga was rediscovered and reinstalled in a newly constructed temple in Bicholim – a feat made possible by Chatrapati Shivaji Maharaj.
Location
The temple site is in Piedade village, tucked away on the picturesque, eco-sensitive Divar Island in Goa. The site itself does not show up on map, but once you get to the Island, you could ask locals for direction. Map below points to Piedade post office.
Getting to Divar Island
The only way to reach is by a government-run, free ferry, every 10 minutes, from 7 am to 2 am (subject to weather). Travellers with their 4-wheelers boarding their vehicles on the ferry pay a minimal INR 10.
There are three ferry terminals and various departure points. Just check on google maps the closest ferry terminal point from your location.
- Old Goa jetty
- Naroa terminal in the Bicholim district
- Ribandar
